Easy Striped Crochet Sweater - Free Pattern

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Ad-free, and printer-friendly! For the free version, scroll down within this post.***

There’s a new sweater here! I’m happy to share this easy striped cardigan, that’s super comfy and laid back—just how I like ‘em. 😊

I designed this sweater to be as easy as possible. If you can crochet a box you can crochet this sweater. Yep, no increasing or decreasing. The body has nearly zero seaming to do, just the top shoulders.

It’s worked from the bottom-up, then you add on a couple side panels and one middle back panel. The sleeves are worked in the round, turning after every round.

The pattern is available below, along with a full video tutorial. It’s the perfect beginner sweater... I actually really enjoyed making it because it was one of those mindless projects you could work on while watching a show or video and not have to keep looking back at the pattern, due to the simplicity!

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Ad-free, and printer-friendly! For the free version, scroll down within this post.***

Full Video Tutorial:

Easy Striped Sweater

What you’ll need:

-size 5 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge

-category 4 worsted weight yarn in two colors. I used Yarn Bee Through Thick and Thin yarn—yardage required is in sizing section. If using a substitute, a yarn with varying thickness like the one I used would be ideal.

-large tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Gauge:

16 hdc by 13 rows equals a 4 inch square

Sizing and Yardage:

please note that the sweater is designed a bit oversized and can stretch with wear

***Size XSmall***
Bust = 43” Length = 32”
Approximately 1,720 yards of yarn

***Small/Medium***
Bust = 45” Length = 33”
Approximately 1,864 yards of yarn

***Large/XLarge***
Bust = 47” Length = 34”
Approximately 2,010 yards of yarn

***Plus***
Bust = 49” Length = 35”
Approximately 2,160 yards of yarn

Notes:

-chains at beginning of rows do not count as stitches

-you can customize the length by adding or taking away rows before you begin working on the top panels

-it may be helpful to use stitch markers when working the top panels, to make it easier for you to distinguish where each panel goes, just count off each of the panel’s st count on row 80, then place markers

-when working the sleeves and sleeve ribbing be sure to keep an eye on stitch count, as it is easy to drop or add stitches

-below is a rough sketch of how the sweater is worked up. You will start at the bottom and work up, then begin working on top of the bottom portion in 3 sections—called the top side panels and top middle panel.

Once top panels are done, you will fold the sides over and sew the tops together shown below. This will make arm holes for the sleeves. Then the sleeves will be worked in the round, turning after every round.

-here's how the the sizing will be formatted for the pattern when instructions for the different sizes are grouped together: XS, S/M, L/XL, PLUS

-the top panel rows will be formatted: 1st top side panel= “a”, top middle panel = “b”, 2nd top side panel = “c”

Abbreviations:

sl=slip, ch(‘s)=chain(s), st(s)=stitch(es), hdc=half double crochet, sc=single crochet, prev=previous

Pattern:

/// Bottom Portion of the Sweater Body ///

Row 1) * using first color * ch [153 162, 171, 180], hdc in 3rd ch from hook and across (151, 160, 169, 178 total sts)

Rows 2-80) ch 2, turn, hdc across row (151, 160, 169, 178 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color *

///1st Top Side Panel (a)///

***Size XSmall***

Row 81a) ch 2, turn, hdc 32 (32 total sts)

Rows 82a-106a) ch 2, turn, hdc across (32 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 10 rows *

finish off

***Size Small/Medium***

Row 81a) ch 2, turn, hdc 35 (32 total sts)

Rows 82a-108a) ch 2, turn, hdc across (35 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 12 rows

finish off

***Size Large/XLarge***

Row 81a) ch 2, turn, hdc 38 (38 total sts)

Rows 82a-110a) ch 2, turn, hdc across (38 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 14 rows

finish off

***Size Plus***

Row 81a) ch 2, turn, hdc 41 (41 total sts)

Rows 82a-112a) ch 2, turn, hdc across (41 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color

finish off

///Top Middle Panel (b)///

***Size XSmall***

Row 81b) draw up yarn in st NEXT to the bottom of the first top side panel (in photo above) ch 3, tug on yarn end to secure, hdc in same st that you drew up yarn, then 86 more hdc (87 total sts)

Rows 82b-106a) ch 2, turn, hdc across (87 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 10 rows *

finish off

***Size Small/Medium***

Row 81b) draw up yarn in st NEXT to the bottom of the first top side panel (in photo above) ch 3, tug on yarn end to secure, hdc in same st that you drew up yarn, then 89 more hdc (90 total sts)

Rows 82b-108b) ch 2, turn, hdc across (90 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 12 rows

finish off

***Size Large/XLarge***

Row 81b) draw up yarn in st NEXT to the bottom of the first top side panel (in photo above) ch 3, tug on yarn end to secure, hdc in same st that you drew up yarn, then 92 more hdc (93 total sts)

Rows 82b-110b) ch 2, turn, hdc across (93 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 14 rows

finish off

***Size Plus***

Row 81b) draw up yarn in st NEXT to the bottom of the first top side panel (in photo above) ch 3, tug on yarn end to secure, hdc in same st that you drew up yarn, then 95 more hdc (96 total sts)

Rows 82b-112b) ch 2, turn, hdc across (96 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color

finish off

///2nd Top Side Panel (c)///

***Size XSmall***

Row 81c) draw up yarn in st NEXT to the bottom of the top middle panel (in photo above) ch 3, tug on yarn end to secure, hdc in same st that you drew up yarn, and across to the end of row (32 total sts)

Rows 82c-106c) ch 2, turn, hdc across (32 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 10 rows *

finish off

***Size Small/Medium***

Row 81c) draw up yarn in st NEXT to the bottom of the first top side panel (in photo above) ch 3, tug on yarn end to secure, hdc in same st that you drew up yarn, and across to the end of row (35 total sts)

Rows 82c-108c) ch 2, turn, hdc across (35 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 12 rows

finish off

***Size Large/XLarge***

Row 81c) draw up yarn in st NEXT to the bottom of the first top side panel (in photo above) ch 3, tug on yarn end to secure, hdc in same st that you drew up yarn, and across to the end of row (38 total sts)

Rows 82c-110c) ch 2, turn, hdc across (38 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 14 rows

finish off

***Size Plus***

Row 81c) draw up yarn in st NEXT to the bottom of the first top side panel (in photo above) ch 3, tug on yarn end to secure, hdc in same st that you drew up yarn, and across to the end of row (41 total sts)

Rows 82c-112c) ch 2, turn, hdc across (41 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color

finish off

photo shows all 3 top panels completed

/// Seaming the Top Shoulders ///

To seam the tops of the sweater you will fold over both top side panels onto the top middle panel, lining up the top and outside edges.

Then you will sew along the very tops of both sides, creating the shoulder seams. You can see in the photo above I showed where to sew where the dotted lines are. You can pin the panels together to keep them from shifting.

I sewed along the very top edge of the panels with yarn and large needle inserting my needle from the back, pulling through yarn and inserting needle again through the back side, which made the seam go over the top of the edges. Make sure not to pull too tightly on the yarn so the project doesn’t bunch. Repeat for both sides.

///Sleeves///

Round 1) draw up yarn in armpit of sleeve hole, the little gap in between the front and back top panels (shown in photo above), ch 3, and tug on yarn tail to secure (continued below)

work one hdc into the edge of every row from the top panels (in photo above, arrows show where you will work each hdc for the sleeve onto the very edge of each row of the top panels) all the way around your sleeve hole (52, 56, 60, 64 total sts)

Rounds 2-48) ch 2, flip work (you will now be working the round the opposite way), hdc around (52, 56, 60, 64 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color

///Sleeve Ribbing///

Step 1) for ribbing switch to next color, ch 13, work sc in 2nd ch from hook, and across remaining chains (12 total sts)

Step 2) next, you will sl st into next 3 sts of the sleeve end (this connects ribbing to sleeve), shown in photo above.

Step 3) ch 1, turn, for first st of next row of ribbing you will insert hook into 2nd sl st from hook AND the 1st sc (shown in photo above) and work a sc, then work sc into remaining sts (12 total sts)

Step 4) ch 1, turn, sc across row (12 total sts) then sl st into the next 3 sts of the sleeve end

Repeat steps 3-4 around the sleeve end, until you get to the last rows, sl st into remaining sts of sleeve, ch 1, turn, sc across row ch 1, turn, and pinch two ends of sleeve ribbing together (shown in photo above) and slip stitch the ends together inserting hook into both edges. Finish off after ribbing is closed up.

Weave in ends, and you’re done with a super cute striped sweater!

Morning Coffee Coatigan - Free Crochet Pattern

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Ad-free, and printer-friendly! For the free version, scroll down within this post.***

You know that horrible feeling when you wake up and roll out of your warm bed on a winter morning and it’s so flippin’ cold you wanna cry?! Okay, maybe a bit dramatic, but I digress… you could wrap yourself in a blankie and try to juggle holding that on while making your morning cup o’ coffee, orrrrrrr you could just make this new Morning Coffee Coatigan and all your troubles will disappear!!!

For reals though, that is precisely why this new cardi has it’s name. I specifically wanted a warm blanket-like sweater I could toss on in the mornings while I sipped coffee and read my bible. And it has not disappointed! I’ve reached for it every chance I could since completing it.

And this thing will keep you warm, now. It’s effortless, oversized and I love the look of it!

It’s made with Hobby Lobby’s Yarn Bee Luciana yarn, which is kinda like a rustic version of Lion Brand’s Homespun yarn. I loved this yarn! It did take a little bit to get used to working with it, but then I got into a groove and all was well. You could check out the blog post I wrote HERE with tips on how to better work with Homespun yarn for some additional help.

The sweater is very much beginner friendly— the body is made in one piece, and the sleeves are very simple to make and attach. I hope the Morning Coffee Coatigan is one you make this winter!

Morning Coffee Coatigan

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Ad-free, and printer-friendly! For the free version, scroll down within this post.***

What you’ll need:

-#5 bulky weight yarn (see sizing for yardage), I used Yarn Bee Luciana in color Linen
-9 mm crochet hook
-yarn needle

Gauge:

8 hdc by 6 rows equals four inch square

Abbreviations:

ch=chain, hdc=half double crochet, st(s)=stitch(es), hdc2tog=half double crochet two together, fphdc=front post half double crochet, bphdc=back post half double crochet

Notes:

-pattern is beginner-friendly

-body of the sweater is worked up in one piece, and worked from side-to-side

-ch’s at beginning of rows do not count as sts

-this yarn is very similar to Lion Brand Homespun, and can take some getting used to when working with it. I found my groove after some time. I have a blog post with tips on how to better work with yarns like Homespun found HERE.

-the yarn, in my opinion, could cross over into the next weight category up, so you may be able to use a #6 weight yarn, I’d just make sure to match up gauge

-size shown in photos is Medium/Large, I decided to size up for a relaxed, oversized fit. Keep in mind the sweater is designed to be oversized, and very forgiving size-wise

Sizing:

(remember, designed to be pretty oversized)

***Size XSmall/Small***
Bust = 44” Length = 26”
Approximately 750 yards of yarn

***Medium/Large***
Bust = 48” Length = 27”
Approximately 825 yards of yarn

***XLarge***
Bust = 52” Length = 27”
Approximately 900 yards of yarn

***Plus***
Bust = 56” Length = 28”
Approximately 1,000 yards of yarn

Pattern:

———Body of the sweater———

***Size XSMALL/SMALL***

Row 1) ch 54, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (you could also foundation hdc since this yarn is a bit difficult to keep track of ch’s) (53 total sts)

Rows 2-15) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (53 total sts)

Row 16) ch 14 (ch loosely, this is making the sleeve hole), skip 14 sts, then hdc across the rest of the row (14 total ch, 39 total hdc)

Row 17) ch 1, turn, hdc across row—even in sleeve hole ch’s (53 total sts)

Rows 18-53) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (53 total sts)

Row 54) repeat instructions from row 16

Row 55) repeat instructions from row 17

Rows 56-69) ch 1, turn hdc across row (53 total sts)

finish off

***SIZE MEDIUM/LARGE***

Row 1) ch 56, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (you could also foundation hdc since this yarn is a bit difficult to keep track of ch’s) (55 total sts)

Rows 2-17) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (55 total sts)

Row 18) ch 15 (ch loosely, this is making the sleeve hole), skip 15 sts, then hdc across the rest of the row (15 total ch, 40 total hdc)

Row 19) ch 1, turn, hdc across row—even in sleeve hole ch’s (55 total sts)

Rows 20-57) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (55 total sts)

Row 58) repeat instructions from row 18

Row 59) repeat instructions from row 19

Rows 60-75) ch 1, turn hdc across row (55 total sts)

finish off

***SIZE XLARGE***

Row 1) ch 56, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (you could also foundation hdc since this yarn is a bit difficult to keep track of ch’s) (55 total sts)

Rows 2-19) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (55 total sts)

Row 20) ch 16 (ch loosely, this is making the sleeve hole), skip 16 sts, then hdc across the rest of the row (16 total ch, 39 total hdc)

Row 21) ch 1, turn, hdc across row—even in sleeve hole ch’s (55 total sts)

Rows 22-61) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (55 total sts)

Row 62) repeat instructions from row 20

Row 63) repeat instructions from row 21

Rows 64-81) ch 1, turn hdc across row (55 total sts)

finish off

***SIZE PLUS***

Row 1) ch 58, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (you could also foundation hdc since this yarn is a bit difficult to keep track of ch’s) (57 total sts)

Rows 2-21) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (57 total sts)

Row 22) ch 17 (ch loosely, this is making the sleeve hole), skip 17 sts, then hdc across the rest of the row (17 total ch, 40 total hdc)

Row 23) ch 1, turn, hdc across row—even in sleeve hole ch’s (57 total sts)

Rows 24-65) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (57 total sts)

Row 66) repeat instructions from row 22

Row 67) repeat instructions from row 23

Rows 68-87) ch 1, turn hdc across row (57 total sts)

finish off

---

———Sleeves (make two)———

***SIZE XSMALL/SMALL***

Row 1) ch 29, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (28 total sts)

Rows 2-20) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (28 total sts)

Row 21) ch 1, turn, [hdc2tog, hdc] across row—work hdc in last st (19 total sts)

Row 22) ch 1, turn, [hdc2tog, hdc] across row—work hdc in last st (13 total sts)

Row 23) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (13 total sts)

Row 24) ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, [fphdc, bphdc] across row until last st— hdc in last st (13 total sts)

finish off, leave long tail for sewing up sleeve

***SIZE MEDIUM/LARGE***

Row 1) ch 31, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (30 total sts)

Rows 2-20) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (30 total sts)

Row 21) ch 1, turn, [hdc2tog, hdc] across row (20 total sts)

Row 22) ch 1, turn, [hdc2tog, hdc] across row—hdc2tog in last two sts (13 total sts)

Row 23) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (13 total sts)

Row 24) ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, [fphdc, bphdc] across row until last st— hdc in last st (13 total sts)

finish off, leave long tail for sewing up sleeve

***SIZE XLARGE***

Row 1) ch 33, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (32 total sts)

Rows 2-20) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (32 total sts)

Row 21) ch 1, turn, [hdc, hdc2tog] across row—hdc in last two sts (22 total sts)

Row 22) ch 1, turn, [hdc, hdc2tog] across row (15 total sts)

Row 23) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (15 total sts)

Row 24) ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, [fphdc, bphdc] across row until last st— hdc in last st (15 total sts)

finish off, leave long tail for sewing up sleeve

***SIZE PLUS***

Row 1) ch 35, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (34 total sts)

Rows 2-20) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (34 total sts)

Row 21) ch 1, turn, [hdc, hdc2tog] across row—hdc in last st (23 total sts)

Row 22) ch 1, turn, [hdc2tog, hdc] across row—hdc2tog in last st (15 total sts)

Row 23) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (15 total sts)

Row 24) ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, [fphdc, bphdc] across row until last st— hdc in last st (15 total sts)

finish off, leave long tail for sewing up sleeve

Assembly:

To assemble the sweater, begin with the body piece. Lay it down on a flat surface and fold over the two front panels like shown in the photo above (the sleeve holes on top). Then grab your yarn needle plus a long strand of yarn, and sew along the top two sides of the body. You will sew along the very edges using a whip stitch, making sure not to sew too tightly. By sewing the tops you will create the “shoulders” of the sweater.

Next up is the sleeve. Fold it over long ways like shown in the photo above. You will sew all along the long open edge using the same loose-handed whip stitch. Do this for both sleeves.

Now you will be joining the sleeve to the body. Insert the sleeve within the body piece, matching up the top of the sleeve to the sleeve hole on the body. I found that it didn’t matter which side was the “right” side when sewing this sweater because the yarn disguised it.

Once the sleeve and the body’s sleeve hole are lined up, you will take your needle and yarn and sew all the way around the very edges of the two using a whip stitch, it’s important to sew loosely so the sleeve holes aren’t too tight! Do this for both sleeves.

After that, weave in all ends and your new Morning Coffee Coatigan is complete! What a treat. My new go-to wearable… do share with me over on Instagram if you make your own! I love admiring others’ work :)