The Cloud Nine Cropped Sweater - Free Crochet Pattern

***If you’d like the PDF version of this pattern, you can purchase it by clicking HERE. Great for easy printing, and without ads. For the free version, scroll down into the post.***

I am just pleased as punch to bring you the new free sweater pattern! The Cloud Nine Cropped Sweater certainly lives up to it’s name, as it’s made with the absolute softest yarn to grace this planet: Yarn Bee Cloud 9 Yarn. Ohhh, what a dream!

I mean, you can see proof in photo above… it’s just one of the most lovely yarns I’ve worked with (and no, this isn’t a sponsored post!). It’s polyester, very lightweight-feeling and the feel is so buttery! The makeup of it is like a thin strand of thread with fluffy bursts coming out of it, if that makes sense whatsoever?? It’s perfect for garments :)

When it comes to the sweater itself, I love the cropped cut! And it pairs well with so many outfits… I thought it looked cool with some distressed shorts for a laid-back Spring look. But I also have dreams of wearing it with a floral maxi skirt or some high waisted black pants. Oooh don’t even get me started, mkkkk.

And if you’re not too big of a fan of cropped sweaters, it’s actually easily adjustable— so you can add the length you’d like.

While this yarn truly is the star of the show when it comes to this sweater, I did find it a bit tricky at first to work with, just because it’s a bit hard to see the stitches. But fear not! I figured out some tricks on how to tackle this issue, and summed them up in the notes section of the pattern. I think figuring out how to work with it is absolutely worth it because the drape and feel of the yarn really just “makes” the sweater in my opinion.

Without further ado, here’s the pattern for the Cloud Nine Cropped Sweater… a staple in your Spring wardrobe, no doubt! I hope you enjoy making this fun and unbelievably soft piece of clothing :)

***If you’d like the PDF version of this pattern, you can purchase it by clicking HERE. Great for easy printing, and without ads. For the free version, scroll down into the post.***

What you’ll need:

-category 3 (light) weight yarn (yardage for each size is found in the “notes” section), I used Yarn Bee Cloud 9 Yarn in color “Mushroom”. I highly suggest using this yarn or one similar in texture for this pattern.

-size g (4.25 mm) hook

-yarn needle

-stitch markers

-sewing pins (optional)

Gauge:

15 dc and 8 rows equals a four inch square

Abbreviations:

ch=chain, dc=double crochet, st(s)=stitch(es), sl=slip, hdc=half double crochet, fpdc=front post double crochet, bpdc=back post double crochet, dc2tog=double crochet two together (decrease)

Notes:

*** Yarn Yardage per size:

Small (approx 38” bust) - 950-1000 yards
Medium (approx 40” bust) - 1000-1050 yards
Large (approx 42” bust) - 1050-1100 yards
XL (approx 44” bust) - 1100-1150 yards
2X (approx 48” bust) - 1200-1250 yards

-ch’s at beginning of rows and rounds do NOT count as sts

-I learned some little tricks while working with this yarn, which is so soft… and flowy… and awesome, yet very hard to distinguish stitches with. I found out that good lighting while working with it made all the difference. Also working into the initial chains was the hardest part for me, so I took it super slow. I usually just went by feel when it came to where to put the next stitch, but if I ever had doubt, I held it up to the light to see better.

-sweater is worked up in a front and back body panel, and the sleeves and collar are crocheted onto the body once it’s sewn. Both front and back panels are worked from the bottom-up.

-you could easily add rows to the body to make this sweater fit longer— just add them before you begin to work the neck hole on the front panel. When sewing the panels, just add the amount of rows to row 22 to figure out what row to sew up to on each side.

-size worn in photos is small

Pattern:

***Back Panel :

Formated S (M, L, XL, 2X)

Row 1) ch 77 (81, 85, 89, 97), dc in 3rd ch from hook and across, I found it easier to work dc’s into BLO of ch’s (75, 79, 83, 87, 95 total sts)

Row 2) ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st, fpdc, [bpdc, fpdc] across row— work hdc in last st (75, 79, 83, 87, 95 total sts)

Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st, bpdc, [fpdc, bpdc] across row— work hdc in last st (75, 79, 83, 87, 95 total sts)

Row 4) repeat row 2

Row 5) repeat row 3

Row 6) ch 2, turn, dc across row (75, 79, 83, 87, 95 total sts)

——-FOR SIZES SMALL & MEDIUM:

Rows 7-38) repeat row 6

-finish off

——-FOR SIZES LARGE AND XLARGE:

Rows 7-40) repeat row 6

-finish off

——-FOR SIZES 2X:

Rows 7-42) repeat row 6

-finish off

***Front Panel:

——--SIZES SMALL & MEDIUM, formatted S (M) :

Rows 1-5) repeat instructions from back panel

Rows 6-32) ch 2, turn, dc across row (75, 79 total sts)

(now working one side of the neck hole)

Row 33) ch 2, turn, work 27 (28) dc, sc, sl st in next 19 (21) sts, sc, dc in last 27 (28) sts (75, 79 total sts)

Row 34) ch 2, turn, work 26 (27) dc, sc in next st (27, 28 total sts)

Row 35) turn- do not ch, sl st into 1st st (does not count as st), sc, dc in last 25 (26) sts (26, 27 total sts)

Row 36) ch 2, turn, work 25 (26) dc, sc in last st (26, 27 total sts)

Row 37) turn- do not ch, sl st into 1st st (does not count as st), sc, dc in last 24 (25) sts (25, 26 total sts)

Row 38) ch 2, turn, work 24 (25) dc, sc in last st (25, 26 total sts)

finish off, leave long tail to sew the top seam

(now working on the opposite side of the top of the front panel, to complete the other side of the neck hole, you will draw up your yarn in the very last st of row 33. View “photo A” below for assistance.)

Once yarn is drawn up, you will repeat rows 34-38 to complete the other side of the neck hole. Then finish off and leave long tail to sew up top seam.

——-SIZES LARGE & XLARGE, formatted L (XL) :

Rows 1-5) repeat instructions from back panel

Rows 6-34) ch 2, turn, dc across row (83, 87 total sts)

(now working one side of the neck hole)

Row 35) ch 2, turn, work 29 (30) dc, sc, sl st in next 23 (25) sts, sc, dc in last 29 (30) sts (83, 87 total sts)

Row 36) ch 2, turn, work 28 (29) dc, sc in next st (29, 30 total sts)

Row 37) turn- do not ch, sl st into 1st st (does not count as st), sc, dc in last 27 (28) sts (28, 29 total sts)

Row 38) ch 2, turn, work 27 (28) dc, sc in last st (28, 29 total sts)

Row 39) turn- do not ch, sl st into 1st st (does not count as st), sc, dc in last 26 (27) sts (27, 28 total sts)

Row 40) ch 2, turn, work 26 (27) dc, sc in last st (27, 28 total sts)

finish off, leave long tail to sew the top seam

(now working on the opposite side of the top of the front panel, to complete the other side of the neck hole, you will draw up your yarn in the very last st of row 35. View “photo A” below for assistance.)

Once yarn is drawn up, you will repeat rows 36-40 to complete the other side of the neck hole. Then finish off and leave long tail to sew up top seam.

——SIZE 2X :

Rows 1-5) repeat instructions from back panel

Rows 6-36) ch 2, turn, dc across row (95 total sts)

(now working one side of the neck hole)

Row 37) ch 2, turn, work 32 dc, sc, sl st in next 29 sts, sc, dc in last 32 sts (95 total sts)

Row 38) ch 2, turn, work 31 dc, sc in next st (32 total sts)

Row 39) turn- do not ch, sl st into 1st st (does not count as st), sc, dc in last 30 sts (31 total sts)

Row 40) ch 2, turn, work 30 dc, sc in last st (31 total sts)

Row 41) turn- do not ch, sl st into 1st st (does not count as st), sc, dc in last 29 sts (30 total sts)

Row 42) ch 2, turn, work 29 dc, sc in last st (30 total sts)

finish off, leave long tail to sew the top seam

(now working on the opposite side of the top of the front panel, to complete the other side of the neck hole, you will draw up your yarn in the very last st of row 37. View “photo A” below for assistance.)

Once yarn is drawn up, you will repeat rows 38-42 to complete the other side of the neck hole. Then finish off and leave long tail to sew up top seam.

After both panels are completed, you’re ready to sew the body together. Place your front panel on top of the back panel, like shown in photo above. It doesn’t matter which sides are on the inside because they look the same at this point.

Then you will want to mark where you will sew up to on the sides of both panels with a stitch marker— you will be sewing up to row 22 (this goes for all sizes). It is important your rows line up on the front and back panels so you will have the exact amount of rows left for the sleeve hole—it also may help to use sewing pins to keep panels secure and in place.

for SIZES SMALL & MEDIUM there will be 16 rows on both the front and back panel not sewn for the sleeve hole
for SIZES LARGE & XLARGE there will be 18 rows on both the front and back panel not sewn for the sleeve hole
for SIZE 2X there will be 20 rows on both the front and back panel not sewn for the sleeve hole

Using yarn needle and long piece of yarn, sew up on each of the sides of the front and back panel through row 22. I used the whip stitch along the very outer edge of both pieces, and made sure to have a pretty loose tension when sewing.

Then you will sew the tops of your panels together using the same loose whip stitch. Sew starting on the outside then move in, and stop when the neck hole forms on the front panel.

After the two panels are sewn along the top and sides, you will begin on the sleeves. Begin by drawing up your yarn in the bottom of one of the sleeve holes AKA the armpit (I found it didn’t make any difference if you flipped the sweater right side out when working the sleeves— because this yarn disguises rows and rounds well). ch 2, then you will begin working dc’s into the very edge of each row of your sleeve hole. You will work a sequence of [2dc, dc] all the way around the sleeve hole, then join to 1st dc with sl st. This completes the first round of the sleeve.

***Total SLEEVE sts worked into sleeve hole for each size:

SMALL & MEDIUM: 48 total sts (24 on each side)
LARGE & XLARGE: 54 total sts (27 on each side)
2X: 60 total sts (30 on each side)

Remainder of sleeve:

formatted (S, M, L, XL, 2X)

Rounds 2- 37) ch 2, dc around, join to 1st dc with sl st (48, 48, 54, 54, 60 total sts)

Round 38) ch 2, dc2tog around, join to 1st st with sl st (24, 24, 27, 27, 30 total sts)

Round 39) ch 2, dc around, join to 1st dc with sl st (24, 24, 27, 27, 30 total sts)

Round 40) ch 1, [fpdc, bpdc] around, join to 1st st with sl st (24, 24, 27, 27, 30 total sts)

Round 41) repeat row 40

finish off

***repeat instructions for other sleeve

You will finish up your sweater by crocheting around the neck hole to create the collar. Draw up your yarn in the back corner of the neck hole and ch 1. Work hdc’s around the very edge of the entire neck hole, then join to first hdc with sl st.

Rounds 2-3 of neck hole) ch 1, [fpdc, bpdc] around, join to 1st st with sl st

After the neck hole is finished, and all ends woven are in, you’re ready to slip on the loveliest sweater ever! And even better that YOU made it?!

I hope this pattern/sweater brings value to your life! It’s so fun making the stuff we wear… or even making something for someone else— it’s just so special. Now go give someone a hug with your cuddly new sweater!! Teehee.

Take care and happy hooking,
Meg

Free Crochet Pattern - Retro Stripes Sweater

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Great for easy printing! For the free pattern scroll down into the post.***

I’m pretty dern happy to bring you the latest sweater pattern! It’s cool, cozy and got all of those fun throwback vibes. It’s definitely a beginner-friendly sweater—body worked up in one piece and completely made up of half double crochets!

I made a medium for myself, and it’s got plenty of room, I designed it to have a bit of an oversized look in both the body and the arms. I also really like the ribbed mock neck collar.

Possibly my favorite part of the sweater is the color combo I decided to go with. I used Red Heart Yarn’s new Hygge Charm yarn. It’s got really cool color options, plus the texture of the yarn is nice! It’s soft and airy, plus it’s got this super subtle sparkle to it. You can see all the colors available below… I think I could have a heyday just dreaming up color schemes with this yarn.

Hope you get to whip up this insanely simple sweater. It’d even look great in one color, color blocked or smaller stripes. Possibilities=endless.

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Great for easy printing! For the free pattern scroll down into the post.***

What you’ll need:

-Worsted weight (4) yarn, for this sweater I used Red Heart Hygge Charm (Click HERE to view) in “Supernova” (COLOR A), “Starlight” (COLOR B), “Falling star” (COLOR C), “Meteor” (COLOR D), and “Shooting Star” (COLOR E) **See notes for yardage information

-size k (6.5mm) hook, or size needed to obtain gauge

-sewing pins

-yarn needle

Gauge:

12 hdc by 10 rows equals a four inch square

Abbreviations:

ch=chain, hdc=half double crochet, BLO=back loop only, st(s)=stitch(es), sk=skip, sl=slip

Notes:

———————————-

**Sizing and yarn yardage information:

SIZE SMALL (40” BUST)
Approximately 1,075 total yards for sweater

SIZE MEDIUM (42” BUST)
Approximately 1,2OO total yards for sweater

SIZE LARGE (44” BUST)
Approximately 1,325 total yards for sweater

SIZE XLARGE (46” BUST)
Approximately 1,450 total yards for sweater

SIZE 2XLARGE (50” BUST)
Approximately 1700 total yards for sweater

———————————-

-sizes are formatted in the pattern as (S, M, L, XL, 2X)

-sweater is designed to be a bit oversized

-ch’s at the beginning of rows do not count as stitches

-body of the sweater is worked in one piece, you’ll start by crocheting the bottom ribbing, then working into the long side of the ribbing you’ll make the body (adding a neck hole in the middle) then adding the other side’s ribbing

-it’s important to note that when sewing at any point during the sweater to do so loosely. Sewing too tightly could cause the seam to look bunched or also make it hard to get the sweater on and off

-size in the photos is size Medium

-Pretty please check your gauge before making this sweater. It’s a whole lotta wasted time if you don’t and find out your sweater is far too large or small.

Pattern:

—-BODY OF SWEATER—-

Bottom ribbing (make 2):

Row 1) *Using COLOR A* ch 10, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (9 total sts)

Row 2) ch 1, turn, hdc in BLO across row (9 total sts)

SIZE SMALL: Repeat row 2 until you have 43 total rows of ribbing
SIZE MEDIUM: Repeat row 2 until you have 45 total rows of ribbing
SIZE LARGE: Repeat row 2 until you have 47 total rows of ribbing
SIZE XLARGE: Repeat row 2 until you have 49 total rows of ribbing
SIZE 2XLARGE: Repeat row 2 until you have 53 total rows of ribbing

*still using COLOR A* ch 1, then you will work hdc’s into the long edge of the ribbing closest to your hook. You will work a sequence of [1 hdc, 2 hdc] into the very edge of each of the rows of the ribbing. View photo above for assistance. (64, 67, 70, 73, 79 total sts)

-Finish off

Rest of Body:

**grab one of the “bottom ribbings” to work the body of the sweater. You will start where you left off working the [1 hdc, 2hdc] **

Rows 1-54) *changing yarn color after 6 rows each color (starting with COLOR B, C, D, E)* ch 1, turn, hdc across row (64, 67, 70, 73, 79 total sts)

*you will end with COLOR B in row 54*

——————————-

**FOR SIZE SMALL & MEDIUM, FORMATTED (S,M):

Row 55) *still using COLOR B* ch 1, turn, hdc in (19, 20) sts, ch (26, 27) *loosely*, sk (26, 27) sts, then hdc in the remaining (19, 20) sts (64, 67 total sts)

Rows 56-108) *changing yarn color after 6 rows each color (starting with COLOR B, then C, D, E)* ch 1, turn, hdc across row (64, 67 total sts)

**FOR SIZE LARGE & XLARGE, FORMATTED (L, XL):

Rows 55-56) *still using COLOR B* ch 1, turn, hdc across row (70, 73 total sts)

Row 57) *still using COLOR B* ch 1, turn, hdc in (21, 22) sts, ch (28, 29) *loosely*, sk (28, 29) sts, then hdc in the remaining (21, 22) sts (70, 73 total sts)

Rows 58-59) *still using COLOR B* ch 1, turn, hdc across row (70, 73 total sts)

Rows 60-110) *changing yarn color after 6 rows each color (starting with COLOR B, then C, D, E)* ch 1, turn, hdc across row (70, 73 total sts)

**FOR SIZE 2XL:

Rows 55-58) *change to COLOR C* ch 1, turn, hdc across row (79 total sts)

Row 59) *still using COLOR C* ch 1, turn, hdc in 24 sts, ch 31 *loosely*, sk 31 sts, then hdc in the remaining 24 sts (79 total sts)

Rows 60-63) *still using COLOR C* ch 1, turn, hdc across row (79 total sts)

Rows 64-114) *changing yarn color after 6 rows each color (starting with COLOR B, then C, D, E)* ch 1, turn, hdc across row (79 total sts)

———————————-

**To attach the other “bottom ribbing”:

Starting where you left off on the body of the sweater: slip stitch, very loosely (important!!), the last row of the body to the stitches along the long side of ribbing. When slip stitching, insert hook into one loop of each the body and the ribbing (the two loops that are closest to one another) all the way across.

-Finish off

—-SLEEVES (MAKE 2)—-

Ribbing of sleeve:

Row 1) *using COLOR A* ch 10, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (9 total sts)

Row 2) ch 1, turn, hdc in BLO across row (9 total sts)

SIZE SMALL & MEDIUM: Repeat row 2 until you have 16 total rows of ribbing

SIZE LARGE & XLARGE: Repeat row 2 until you have 18 total rows of ribbing

SIZE 2XLARGE: Repeat row 2 until you have 20 total rows of ribbing

Rest of Sleeve:

Row 1) Using the same technique as the bottom ribbing of the body (still using COLOR A), you will ch 1, then work [1 hdc, 2 hdc] along the long edge of the sleeve ribbing into the end of each of the ribbing rows (24, 24, 27, 27, 30 total sts)

Row 2) *changing yarn color after 6 rows each color (starting with COLOR B, then C, D, E)* ch 1, turn, work [1 hdc, 2 hdc] across row (36, 36, 40, 40, 45 total sts)

Rows 3-4) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (36, 36, 40, 40, 45 total sts)

Row 5) ch 1, turn, work 2 hdc in first st, hdc across until second to last st, work 2 hdc in last st (38, 38, 42, 42, 47 total sts)

Rows 6-8) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (38, 38, 42, 42, 47 total sts)

Row 9) ch 1, turn, work 2 hdc in first st, hdc across until second to last st, work 2 hdc in last st (40, 40, 44, 44, 49 total sts)

Rows 10-12) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (40, 40, 44, 44, 49 total sts)

Row 13) ch 1, turn, work 2 hdc in first st, hdc across until second to last st, work 2 hdc in last st (42, 42, 46, 46, 51 total sts)

Rows 14-16) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (42, 42, 46, 46, 51 total sts)

Row 17) ch 1, turn, work 2 hdc in first st, hdc across until second to last st, work 2 hdc in last st (44, 44, 48, 48, 53 total sts)

Rows 18-20) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (44, 44, 48, 48, 53 total sts)

Row 21) ch 1, turn, work 2 hdc in first st, hdc across until second to last st, work 2 hdc in last st (46, 46, 50, 50, 55 total sts)

Rows 22-24) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (46, 46, 50, 50, 55 total sts)

Row 25) ch 1, turn, work 2 hdc in first st, hdc across until second to last st, work 2 hdc in last st (48, 48, 52, 52, 57 total sts)

Rows 26-28) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (48, 48, 52, 52, 57 total sts)

Row 29) ch 1, turn, work 2 hdc in first st, hdc across until second to last st, work 2 hdc in last st (50, 50, 54, 54, 59 total sts)

Rows 30-32) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (50, 50, 54, 54, 59 total sts)

Row 33) ch 1, turn, work 2 hdc in first st, hdc across until second to last st, work 2 hdc in last st (52, 52, 56, 56, 61 total sts)

Rows 34-36) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (52, 52, 56, 56, 61 total sts)

Row 37) ch 1, turn, work 2 hdc in first st, hdc across until second to last st, work 2 hdc in last st (54, 54, 58, 58, 63 total sts)

-Finish off, leave extra long tail for sewing sleeve to the body

—-ASSEMBLY OF SWEATER—-

First you will sew the sides of the body. Fold the sweater over in half, right sides together and aligning the two bottom ribbings. You will also want to align all the stripes of the body so that they line up well for a clean look. You may want to use sewing pins or safety pins to hold the two pieces together.

**Side note: rather than sewing the body with one long piece of yarn, I used the color of yarn for each stripe, because I didn’t like how the different colored yarn showed through the seam.

Using your yarn needle and yarn, you will sew (loosely) using a whip stitch over the very edges of the sides of the body. I started sewing at row 1, not sewing the ribbing— but you could start at the very bottom if desired. You will sew up through row 36 (if you did the stripes, it will be through the second use of COLOR C from the bottom), the rows not sewn above row 36 are the sleeve hole. Do this for both sides.

Next you’re ready for the sleeves. You will fold the sleeve in half, long sides together, aligning the stripes and rows just like on the body. Then sew using the same loose whip stitch along the very edge from the bottom of the ribbing to the very end. Do this for both sleeves.

Then you’ll attach your sleeve to the body. With your body still turned wrong side out, insert your sleeve, which is turned right side out, into the sleeve hole of the body (right sides together). With the sleeve inside the body, align the sleeve armpit seam with the seam of the body, and use your sewing pins to hold the two together.

Sew with your long tail from your sleeve, using the same loose whip stitch along the very edge of the sleeve and sleeve hole on the body, all the way around. Do this for both sleeves.

Then you will turn the sweater right side out.

—-RIBBED NECK COLLAR:—-

Row 1) ch 10, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (9 total sts)

Row 2) ch 1, turn, hdc in BLO across row (9 total sts)

All sizes:

Repeat row 2 until you have made a ribbing that is about 2 inches shorter than the entire neck hole opening of your sweater (this is so it will be stretched a bit to fit the neck hole).

-Finish off, leave extra long tail to sew to the body of the sweater

To attach the collar, you will stretch it to fit the neck hole, and secure the two together with sewing pins. You will put the collar around the outside of the right side of the sweater.

Using your long tail of the collar, sew around the entire neck hole using the loose whip stitch (making extra sure to make loose stitches, because you won’t be able to put it over your head if they’re too tight, yikes!).

Once all sewing is complete, and the million little different colored yarn ends are woven in, your Retro Stripes Sweater is doneeeee!

Then it’s time to sport your fun Retro Sweater. If you do, take a pic and tag me over on Instagram. I’d love to admire your rendition! Hope you like this design as much as I!

Happy hookin’
Meg